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Epidermal barrier with exquisitely constructed lamellar structure provide environment that epidermis can perform normal metabolic process by preventing loss of moisture, natural moisture factor (NMF), lipids, and corneocytes. In general, when the function of the skin barrier has a problem, it has discussed loss and recovery of intercellular lipid in stratum corneum (SC). However, the role of corneocytes, NMF, and other related elements is as much important as intercellular lipids. Especially turnover time must be maintained following steady-state cycle. Thus, we prepared vesicle (NEO-CMSTM) that could apply to formula with high content of biomimetic skin lipids. Also, NEO-CMSTM incorporated saccharide isomerate and hydrolyzed lupine protein, which promoted turnover time by differentiation and migration of keratinocytes, not by stimuli such as chemical or physical peeling and strength organic structure in epidermal barrier. The average particle size of NEO-CMSTM is 200 ~ 300 nm, which can effectively remain into the SC, and is easy to disperse in water phase and excellent in dispersion stability. We investigated the recovery effect of the barrier-damaged skin with NEO-CMSTM. Barrier damage was induced in forearm by using 1 % sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) in 20 subjects (20 ~ 65 yrs). On the SLS-exposed area, test site was divided into non-treated points, control lotion-treated and 2 % NEO-CMSTM lotion-treated. We determined improvement rates of trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin redness (a-value). TEWL continuously increased in the non-treated group, and insignificantly decreased in the control lotion-treated group. However, TEWL in 2 % NEO-CMSTM lotion-treated group significantly decreased after 48 hrs. Skin redness showed a better improvement in all group but 2 % NEO-CMSTM lotion had the highest improvement rate. In addition, we emonstrated the effect of enhancing turnover time and TEWL on normal skin exposed to daily life stress. For the evaluation of turnover time, 20 subjects (20 ~ 65 yrs) have used with 2 % NEO-CMSTM lotion for 4 weeks only in the test site. After 4 weeks, 5 % dihydroxyacetone (DHA) was stained with forearm of subjects for 24 hrs, and skin brightness change (ΔL-value) was measured at 2 d, 7 d, 14 d after the staining. There was a higher turnover promoting effect in the test site compared with control. For skin desquamation index and TEWL evaluation, 20 subjects (20 ~ 65 yrs) have used with 2 % NEO-CMSTM lotion for 4 weeks in the facial area. The desquamation index was improved by 26 % (p<0.001), and TEWL was improved by 20 % (p<0.05). In conclusion, NEO-CMSTM was found to be effective in restoring and enhancing skin barrier in not only barrier-damaged skin but also normal. In addition, it is thought to be highly valuable for renewing the skin cells and fundamentally strengthening the epidermal barrier by extending the concept of simply supplementing lipid or moisture.
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